Discus fish are tropical fish that are in the cichlid family. They are considered one of the most beautiful tropical fish in the world. In the wild, they are found in the Amazon River basin. Discus fish do not move around a lot, and they favor the calm, root-triangle habitats of the amazon river.
At first glance, you will notice how the discus fish got it's name. It has a a laterally compressed body shape (resembling a throwing discus). The sides of the fish can contain shades and variations of patterned green, red, brown, and blue. These fish can grow to be around 10 inches.
In captivity, they require excellent to near perfect water conditions. This requires the aquarist to schedule frequent water changes, and constant water tests to make sure the quality is good. Discus fish also require higher water temperatures than most other tropical fish. Often they are housed in a discus only fish tank.
The body shape various colors, and challenge of keeping them alive and well is what makes the discus fish the king of the tropical fish world.
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Discus Fish Temperature
Discus Fish come from a tropical climate, mainly found in the Amazon. Because of this, Discus fish require a higher temperature than other tropical fish that are kept in captivity. They should be kept at a temperature between 82F - 88F. If the Discus fish are kept at a temperature below this range, they will become stressed and more susceptible to diseases. Discus Fish Temperature should be kept in mind when selecting plants and other tank mates for your tank.
To change temperature, adjust the heater’s dial in the tank. Having two heaters, instead of one in tanks just encase one does not function may be a good idea. It is best practice to have both heaters fully submerged. For a discus tank, use the best heaters and thermometers that you can afford, because if the temperature changes, these fish can get diseases and wipe out an entire tank. This is very important and should be kept in mind when doing the routine water changes on the discus fish tank.
To change temperature, adjust the heater’s dial in the tank. Having two heaters, instead of one in tanks just encase one does not function may be a good idea. It is best practice to have both heaters fully submerged. For a discus tank, use the best heaters and thermometers that you can afford, because if the temperature changes, these fish can get diseases and wipe out an entire tank. This is very important and should be kept in mind when doing the routine water changes on the discus fish tank.
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Discus Fish
Discus Fish and Flagellates
Flagellates are single-celled organisms that move around by moving a whip like structure called a flagella. They are parasites that are commonly found in and around many tropical fish species, like discus fish.
There are many species of flagellates. Some of these live in the intestinal structure of discus fish, and some of them live in the mucus of discus fish gills and skin. They can live without causing trouble in the fish. But when the discus fish gets stressed, even some of these ordinarily harmless flagellates can become harmful.
Some common intestinal and non-intestinal flagellates that can infect discus fish are: Bodomonas, Trichomonas, Hexamita, and Spironucleus.
Bodomonas can occur in crowded tanks of discus fish. One of the main symptoms is that the gills, skin and fins appear to have a slimy secretion that looks a little foggy. In more advanced stages, it can look like the discus fish has red patches in the affected areas. The fins will fold in and the gills might look like they are rotting away.
Hexamita/Spironucleus is commonly associated with the cause of Hexamitiasis hole in the head disease in tropical fish like discus fish. It is caused by a flagellate, and is common in cichlids. These flagellates are likely found in the intestines of the fish, where they are harmless. It is only when the discus fish is weakened in some way that these parasites multiply rapidly and spread into the rest of the body. Once the parasites become established in the other internal organs, the discus fish will lose its appetite and die.
Discus fish that are infected with Hexamita will usually produce a stringy white feces. The discus fish's coloration will be more dull, and not as bright as usual. Sometimes, lesions will appear on the discus fish’s head and or rear. It is also worthy to note that hexamita infections may also be responsible for head and lateral line erosion (HLLE) disease in discus fish.
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There are many species of flagellates. Some of these live in the intestinal structure of discus fish, and some of them live in the mucus of discus fish gills and skin. They can live without causing trouble in the fish. But when the discus fish gets stressed, even some of these ordinarily harmless flagellates can become harmful.
Some common intestinal and non-intestinal flagellates that can infect discus fish are: Bodomonas, Trichomonas, Hexamita, and Spironucleus.
Bodomonas can occur in crowded tanks of discus fish. One of the main symptoms is that the gills, skin and fins appear to have a slimy secretion that looks a little foggy. In more advanced stages, it can look like the discus fish has red patches in the affected areas. The fins will fold in and the gills might look like they are rotting away.
Hexamita/Spironucleus is commonly associated with the cause of Hexamitiasis hole in the head disease in tropical fish like discus fish. It is caused by a flagellate, and is common in cichlids. These flagellates are likely found in the intestines of the fish, where they are harmless. It is only when the discus fish is weakened in some way that these parasites multiply rapidly and spread into the rest of the body. Once the parasites become established in the other internal organs, the discus fish will lose its appetite and die.
Discus fish that are infected with Hexamita will usually produce a stringy white feces. The discus fish's coloration will be more dull, and not as bright as usual. Sometimes, lesions will appear on the discus fish’s head and or rear. It is also worthy to note that hexamita infections may also be responsible for head and lateral line erosion (HLLE) disease in discus fish.
For more information on discus fish disease, Click Here
<- Back to Discus Fish Disease
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Discus Fish Disease
Discus Fin and Tail Rot
Highly contagious infections of the fins and/or tail by bacteria is called "Fin Rot" are common in discus fish. These bacteria will normally infect the tissue of the discus that have been damaged by an injury, poor water quality, or a more severe parasite.
A common cause is a very high pH in the aquarium water. This high pH could burn the fins and tail. The discus's fins will become cloudy, then they will become inflamed, then begin to flake off. If this condition goes untreated, the fish will die.
To avoid fin rot, it is best practice to maintain good water quality. Poor water is full of fish waste, which in turn encourages the bacteria growth that causes fin rot. Make sure you keep up your water changes, and constantly make sure the quality is correct for discus.
For more information on discus fish disease, Click Here
<- Back to Discus Fish Disease
A common cause is a very high pH in the aquarium water. This high pH could burn the fins and tail. The discus's fins will become cloudy, then they will become inflamed, then begin to flake off. If this condition goes untreated, the fish will die.
To avoid fin rot, it is best practice to maintain good water quality. Poor water is full of fish waste, which in turn encourages the bacteria growth that causes fin rot. Make sure you keep up your water changes, and constantly make sure the quality is correct for discus.
For more information on discus fish disease, Click Here
<- Back to Discus Fish Disease
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Discus Fish Disease
Discus Fish Disease
There is a common misconception that discus fish are more prone to disease than other tropical fish. This is simply not true, they are not more prone to disease than other fish. The problem with discus fish is that they do not adapt well to various environmental and water conditions, while other fish are. This weak adaptability makes them more prone to stress, and a more stressful fish is more prone to get a disease.
Discus research has shown that a fish that is under minimal or very short periods of stress are fine and will not be more prone to disease. These shot periods of stress can include: being transported, water changes, and fighting. The issue with disease comes with longer periods of stress, such as poor water quality.
A discus fish that is not stressed can normally fight off any of the common diseases known to the breed. Like all fish, most discus live with the pathogens that cause many of these disease without getting sick. But once the discus is under long periods of stress, these pathogens can take over the discus's immune system.
Below is a list of common discus fish diseases. Please check this page constantly because we are adding new diseases.
Common Discus Fish Diseases:
Fin/Tail Rot
The discus fish, like many other tropical fish, are prone to diseases. These diseases, if not treated can kill an entire aquarium. The best way to eliminate discus fish disease is to make sure your fish is stress free, and your water quality is perfect.
For more information on discus fish disease, Click Here
Discus research has shown that a fish that is under minimal or very short periods of stress are fine and will not be more prone to disease. These shot periods of stress can include: being transported, water changes, and fighting. The issue with disease comes with longer periods of stress, such as poor water quality.
A discus fish that is not stressed can normally fight off any of the common diseases known to the breed. Like all fish, most discus live with the pathogens that cause many of these disease without getting sick. But once the discus is under long periods of stress, these pathogens can take over the discus's immune system.
Below is a list of common discus fish diseases. Please check this page constantly because we are adding new diseases.
Common Discus Fish Diseases:
Fin/Tail Rot
The discus fish, like many other tropical fish, are prone to diseases. These diseases, if not treated can kill an entire aquarium. The best way to eliminate discus fish disease is to make sure your fish is stress free, and your water quality is perfect.
For more information on discus fish disease, Click Here
Categories:
Discus Fish Disease
Discus Fish Secrets
How to care and breed your discus fish, the correct way!
More manuals over the years have been written about keeping and breeding discus fish than any other exotic fish. This is because they are very popular with pet owners and aquarium enthusiasts. Discus fish are very sensitive creatures, if you want to keep long lasting discus fish you need to be aware of there preferred living conditions and feeding and breeding habits.
Discus is a native of the calm and warm Amazon River Keeping discus fish requires the pet owner to have the right information about what to expect and what to offer them to make these exotic creatures happy. Discus fish keeps changing their behaviour according to the environmental factors.
They are generally shy but if your planning to keep discus fish you will notice that they become quite aggressive to there own kind this is because of breeding territory protection. In this type of situation only the strong discus will survive and the week get attacked. Its best to keep to keep discus fish in groups of minimum six individuals is considered ideal. By keeping them in groups it will increase confidence in group members and lower the risk of misbehavior. Keeping discus fish can bring lots of challenges and rewards at the same time too.
Here are some quick tips for you...
Pairing: Discus fish really don't take well to arrange marriages, the best way to get a pair to gather is to buy a group of young unrelated fish of the same colour type and let them pair up themselves. This might happen from when the fish are half grown, spawning usually occurs when there ¾ of their adult size. The fish will usually remain a pair until the remainder of there lives.
Spawning: Discus will choose a near vertical smooth site, which they clean and then the female will lay any ware from 80-400 eggs and then the male fertilises them. It can take between 50-60 hours for the eggs to hatch and another 36-48 hours until their swimming freely.
Breeding Tank: It’s best to keep the breeding tanks simple and to have a simple air powered filtration, spawning sites (terracotta cones, broad leafed plants or slate) and no substrate. The water needs to be very soft so the eggs can develop properly. The quality of the water needs to be excellent and have a temperature of about 84-88F. Also a suitable tank size is 24x18x18.
Feeding and Conditioning: The parents will need a good and varied diet not just to condition them to spawn, but to provide nutrition when they are feeding their fry. Large water changes, a temperature rise and heavy feeding is often a good spawning trigger.
Fry Rearing: It's a good idea to give the fry additional feedings of small foods such as (BBS) baby brine shrimp whilst with parents. You will notice after about 3-6 weeks the parents will be exhausted, also the fry will be growing fast it's a good idea to remove them. This is where lots of tanks and water changes are needed to achieve a decent growth rate. I used to grow circa. 40 fry to just under 2" in a 55G tank, and this required heavy water changing. The discus market is saturated with fish, so it best to grow 20-50 excellent fry than 80 runts. Growth is reasonable, but not spectacular.
So if you're thinking about breeding discus fish I hope these quick tips have been of some use to you.
Remember it pays to do your research. You can learn everything you need to know at Discus Fish Secrets
More manuals over the years have been written about keeping and breeding discus fish than any other exotic fish. This is because they are very popular with pet owners and aquarium enthusiasts. Discus fish are very sensitive creatures, if you want to keep long lasting discus fish you need to be aware of there preferred living conditions and feeding and breeding habits.
Discus is a native of the calm and warm Amazon River Keeping discus fish requires the pet owner to have the right information about what to expect and what to offer them to make these exotic creatures happy. Discus fish keeps changing their behaviour according to the environmental factors.
They are generally shy but if your planning to keep discus fish you will notice that they become quite aggressive to there own kind this is because of breeding territory protection. In this type of situation only the strong discus will survive and the week get attacked. Its best to keep to keep discus fish in groups of minimum six individuals is considered ideal. By keeping them in groups it will increase confidence in group members and lower the risk of misbehavior. Keeping discus fish can bring lots of challenges and rewards at the same time too.
Here are some quick tips for you...
Pairing: Discus fish really don't take well to arrange marriages, the best way to get a pair to gather is to buy a group of young unrelated fish of the same colour type and let them pair up themselves. This might happen from when the fish are half grown, spawning usually occurs when there ¾ of their adult size. The fish will usually remain a pair until the remainder of there lives.
Spawning: Discus will choose a near vertical smooth site, which they clean and then the female will lay any ware from 80-400 eggs and then the male fertilises them. It can take between 50-60 hours for the eggs to hatch and another 36-48 hours until their swimming freely.
Breeding Tank: It’s best to keep the breeding tanks simple and to have a simple air powered filtration, spawning sites (terracotta cones, broad leafed plants or slate) and no substrate. The water needs to be very soft so the eggs can develop properly. The quality of the water needs to be excellent and have a temperature of about 84-88F. Also a suitable tank size is 24x18x18.
Feeding and Conditioning: The parents will need a good and varied diet not just to condition them to spawn, but to provide nutrition when they are feeding their fry. Large water changes, a temperature rise and heavy feeding is often a good spawning trigger.
Fry Rearing: It's a good idea to give the fry additional feedings of small foods such as (BBS) baby brine shrimp whilst with parents. You will notice after about 3-6 weeks the parents will be exhausted, also the fry will be growing fast it's a good idea to remove them. This is where lots of tanks and water changes are needed to achieve a decent growth rate. I used to grow circa. 40 fry to just under 2" in a 55G tank, and this required heavy water changing. The discus market is saturated with fish, so it best to grow 20-50 excellent fry than 80 runts. Growth is reasonable, but not spectacular.
So if you're thinking about breeding discus fish I hope these quick tips have been of some use to you.
Remember it pays to do your research. You can learn everything you need to know at Discus Fish Secrets
Categories:
Discus Fish
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